Turbio IV - Adventure and climbing in a lost valley of Patagonia
Belén Prados climbing on Cerro Tres Negros. La Papa y la Pala Mountain in the background.
In 2023, Vianney, co-founder of Peak Patagonia and a international team of climbers went on an ambitious expedition to the remote Turbio IV Valley. Their mission? To climb the untouched big walls of pristine granite in one of Patagonia’s last unexplored areas. This adventure included a blend of hiking, zip-lining, horseback riding, river crossings, climbing, and packrafting, offering an immersive experience in the heart of northen Patagonia’s wild landscapes..
The Journey begins with Vianney’s dream to explore the Turbio IV Valley, in 2016 after watching a movie about the region. However, finding information on this secluded area proved difficult, with no GPS coordinates or reliable maps available. Over the next few years, Vianney gathered information, connected with local explorers, and met Belén, his future climbing partner. Together, they pieced together a plan to explore the "Lost Valley." A chance encounter with John Collis while crack climbing in Arenales Valley completed their core team, and soon, other passionate climbers joined, bringing the dream of the expedition to life.
Belén Prados on the fourth pitch of Devorame Otra Vez
The Team
The Babel Expedition was composed of eight climbers from around the globe—representing Argentina, Chile, Brazil, the U.S., the U.K., and France. The multi-lingual team split into three groups, each focused on opening new climbing routes on distinct granite formations. Their goal : having fun and finding the best crack climbing on this untouched terrain.
The final expedition team included: - John Collis - Mike Coyle - Gareth "Gaz" Leah (the team's photographer) - Jose Luis Hartman (aka Chiquinho) - Belén Prados - Vianney Lhoumeau - Oscar Marin - Andrea Caceres.
Each climber brought unique skills and experience, contributing to the success of the mission.
On theire Uber (a tractor) drive taking them to the Javier's house, the gaucho that would help them carry the weight till the first hut with his horses.
The Adventure
For 18 days, the team tackled the rugged terrain of Turbio IV Valley, climbing virgin granite walls, navigating untouched rivers, and traversing the wilderness. One of the highlights of the expedition was the final day, when the team embarked on a 35-kilometer float down the Turbio River using packrafts. This peaceful journey gave the climbers a chance to rest and reflect on the adventure while enjoying breathtaking views. Their expedition ended with a boat ride across Lago Puelo, returning them to civilization.
Beautiful picture were taken, thanks to Gareth “Gaz” Leah, a talented professional photographer and strong climber (check is company Well Good Production).
The team is truly thankful to:
Seba De La Cruz
for his invaluable assistance in planning the expedition, his infectious good vibes, and for helping construct those beautiful huts nestled in the heart of the Andes.
for providing support with the best packraft that money can buy.
for supplying those goods 400 meters of bombproof ropes that endured wear and tear throughout our 20-day expedition.
Gabriel Ropoport
for his dedication to maintaining the trail deep in the jungle and for sharing his insightful conversations.
Daniel Seeliger and Silvina Verdún
for dropping us off at the harbor in Lago Puelo and for their timely pick-up upon our return.
The Climbing
The expedition successfully opened three new routes and updated a classic one with modern anchors :
1. The Soft Hammer
5.11d/A2+, Grade IV, 9 pitches on Cerro Tres Negros, was opened by John Collis, Mike Coyle, and Gareth Leah.
2. Devorame Otra Vez 150m
7b/5.12b, was opened by Vianney Lhoumeau and Belén Prados (the crux pitch is still awaiting a free lead).
3. Andrea Caceres and Oscar Marin established a new route on the formation La Oreja.
El Palito (580m, 6c+/5.11b)
Additionally, Jose Luis Hartman (Chiquinho), with the help of Oscar, Andrea, Belén, and Vianney, added two pitches to his original 2008 route and updated anchors with stainless. There is 5-star classic finger crack on the upper headwall.
Read other the expedition reports here :
Gareth Gaz Leah expedition report